This time around, we shall cover Pruning Tomato Plants In Pots. Obviously, there is a great deal of information on prune tomato plants in pots on the Internet. The rapid rise of social media facilitates our ability to acquire knowledge.

information about How To Trim Tomato Plants To Produce More Fruit is also related to How to grow tomatoes and Pruning Cherry Tomato Plants – Why, When, and How to Do It. As for further searchable items pertaining to Tomato plant suckers: When and how to prune tomato plants, they will likewise have anything to do with Should You Prune Tomato Plants In Containers. Pruning Tomato Plants In Pots - Should I Remove Lower Leaves On Tomato Plants

87 Reference List: Pruning Tomato Plants In Pots | Should You Prune Tomato Plants In Containers

  • With bush tomatoes, which have a sprawling habit, you can pretty much leave them to get on with it. If the fruits are hidden under the leaves, thin out the foliage a little to let the sun through to ripen them. Support heavy trusses on top of upturned flowerpots to prevent their stems snapping. - Source: Internet
  • Also keep in mind that if you’re growing tomato plants vertically you should tie them to their supports every seven to ten days with cloth strips, twine, or another soft material. Don’t tie them tight. This keeps the stems straight. - Source: Internet
  • Move your tomatoes outside after the last frost in May. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot, where you can plant them into a border (into soil that has had plenty of well-rotted garden compost added), or into 30cm pots, or put two or three plants in a growing bag. If growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, try growing alongside basil, which thrives in the same conditions. - Source: Internet
  • Both of the shoots in the picture above can be removed by bending them over with your fingers until they snap off. This is probably the easiest way to remove them and it also results in the least damage to the tomato plant. Examine the plant every week or two from top to bottom and remove all the new main steps as described above. - Source: Internet
  • Determinate bush tomatoes do not need any pruning or pinching out! These plants usually only grow to one meter tall. They have dense branching and bear fruit on the side shoots. If you pinch out the side shoots, you will just reduce the plant’s yield. - Source: Internet
  • Start by grabbing a sharp, cleaned pair of pruning shears. If you have recently dealt with diseased plants, make sure you disinfect them before use on your tomatoes with a 5% bleach solution. This will prevent any potential spread from the shears to the plant. - Source: Internet
  • When you first plant a determinate tomato, you should prune off any flower sets that form before the plant is 18-24 inches (45.5 to 61 cm.) tall. This will redirect the plant’s energy from flower formation to developing strong roots. - Source: Internet
  • If you are growing cordon tomatoes for the first time we recommend pruning exactly as described above. If you are a little more adventurous you may want to try a variation on the above method which may, in some circumstances, results in a larger crop over a slightly longer period. The principle is to allow more than one main stem to grow, a good number would be three but definitely no more than four. Clearly, main stem 1 would be the one appearing from the soil, stem 2 would be from one of the lower shoots and stem 3 would be another shoot about 15cm / 6in above. Treat all three main stems as if they were the main stem as described above. - Source: Internet
  • If you’re growing indeterminate tomatoes, which produce fruit regularly over the course of a season, pruning is essential. This helps keep the commonly huge vines in control, and it encourages the plant to produce several large tomatoes instead of lots of foliage and many smaller tomatoes. To fit more plants into a small space, you’ll want to prune your indeterminate tomato plants regularly and keep them staked or caged. This will prevent your plants from getting too large and bushy. However, indeterminate plants will still keep growing taller, and you’ll keep getting fruit as long as the plant is growing. - Source: Internet
  • Rarely does a topic divide tomato lovers as much as the pruning of tomato side shoots. Some argue for consistent tomato pruning, always and with every plant, whereas others simply let their tomatoes grow wild. In this article, we would like to show you that tomato pruning is not just a matter of opinion but has real advantages and disadvantages. We will explain how and why to prune tomatoes and give step-by-step instructions for trimming tomato plants. - Source: Internet
  • Additionally, if your tomato plants are lying on the ground, you might want to prune them, as contact with the soil encourages the development of fungal diseases. When leaves are forced into permanent shade, such as when the bushy plants are on the ground, the amount of sugar they produce is reduced. Instead of pruning, you can also stake your tomato plant to keep the leaves off the ground. - Source: Internet
  • At the beginning of the season, top indeterminate tomatoes to improve growth or prevent leggy stems before fruit set. Mid-season topping can control height and unruly growth when the stems outgrow their supports. And, much like determinate tomatoes, end-of-season topping will direct the energy toward producing the last fruits before the plant dies back at first frost. - Source: Internet
  • Especially in a damp summer, tomato blight can be a real problem. In this clip from Gardeners’ World, Monty reveals the tell-tale symptoms of tomato blight, and how to deal with it. Find out how he salvaged the remaining crop and what you should do with blight-affected plants to limit any further spread of the disease: - Source: Internet
  • Another benefit is that topped tomatoes are easier to stake as well. You can top your tomato vines at the top of the stakes. If you’ve ever had to wrestle with a large tomato plant, you know it’s not fun. - Source: Internet
  • Tall-growing cordon tomatoes will require pinching out (removing side-shoots) and staking (tying plants to canes with soft string). When the first tiny fruits begin to appear, strip away the leaves underneath to allow light and air to reach them better. When there are four trusses (clusters) of flowers, pinch out the plant’s growing tip. - Source: Internet
  • If you don’t know what a sucker is – check the image below. It’s a secondary stem that shoots diagonally at the base of every tomato leaf. Left unattended, it will grow into a thick stem and you won’t be able to tell it apart from the main stem. When pruning suckers for the first time, let them grow a little larger so that you don’t accidentally confuse them with flower clusters. - Source: Internet
  • Growing tomatoes is a fun and rewarding task, resulting in masses of fresh, nutritious tomatoes that taste better than anything you can buy in the shops. Tomatoes are easy to grow and taste best when grown in full sun. There are many different varieties of tomato to grow, including cherry, plum and beefsteak, each with its own distinctive shaped fruit, flavour and culinary use. - Source: Internet
  • Bush type tomato plants need minimal pruning because genetically they produce stems only where required. The pruning mentioned in the section above should be sufficient.Cordon type tomato plants do require pruning in order to maximise the production of fruit and reduce the risks of moulds and other diseases. The picture below shows two key pruning points for a cordon tomato, click the picture if you want to enlarge it. - Source: Internet
  • Determinate growing bush tomatoes or wild tomatoes do not require any pruning. They bear flowers on all side shoots, and so bear fruit again. Highest yields are achieved without trimming. With small-fruited cocktail and cherry tomatoes, you have the option of either letting the tomato plant grow bushy or pruning to leave just a few shoots. - Source: Internet
  • Mid to late season tomato growth can also get out of hand. As the stems continue to grow, they grow taller than the existing stakes or your tomato cage, leaving them vulnerable to snapping with high winds or heavy fruits. Topping will temporarily control this growth, making your plants more resistant to damage from the elements. - Source: Internet
  • Toward the end of the season, tomato plants will continue growing until frost sets in. You may still have blooms or green tomatoes on your plant that need to grow and ripen as quickly as possible. One way to speed up this process is to top the plants. All the energy that went into stem and leaf production will now go toward fruit production. - Source: Internet
  • Your tomato plant won’t really instantly grow three new stems in the place of every stem you cut, but it will reward your pruning efforts with a bounty of delicious fruit. Regularly pruning tomato plants will help the plant produce more fruit. Plants need foliage to create energy from photosynthesis, but the growth and development of foliage uses up a lot of the plant’s energy that could be used for fruit production. It is possible to get overzealous and wind up with an over pruned tomato plant, but removing dead, diseased, or just unnecessary leaves and stems from tomato plants increases the fruit. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate cherry tomatoes will keep on growing until the frost kills them. And they’ll grow faster than regular tomatoes, too. This is why you’ll often see them reach an impressive height of 8ft, sprawling over your stakes or trellises. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate cherry tomatoes typically require pruning because they are prolific growers. If left untouched, all suckers will turn into stems, creating a crowded plant that shades its surroundings. Leave the main stem and 1-2 suckers for optimal results and prune new suckers regularly. - Source: Internet
  • Some gardeners argue that cherry tomatoes don’t need pruning, because they’ll be even more productive if suckers are left alone. And that’s true – ALL tomato suckers will grow into a new stem with leaves and fruit. On regular slicing tomatoes, those suckers zap the energy out of the plant and stunt fruit production, but with cherry tomatoes, you don’t see this happening. - Source: Internet
  • Bush tomato types are pre-programmed in their genes to produce a plant of a certain shape, size and with a pre-determined number of stems and side-shoots. In general, “nature knows best” so these tomato types can largely (but not completely) be left to their devices. The will need help in removing some lower down foliage and thinning out of their leaves, the reason being that tomato plants are sub-tropical in nature and you, in all probability, are trying to grow them in the temperate UK! - Source: Internet
  • Enjoy tomatoes in salads and sandwiches. Most types are also suitable for cooking, but plum varieties are especially suitable. If you’re lucky enough to have a glut of tomatoes, try experimenting with your own pasta sauces. - Source: Internet
  • Mulch your tomato plants! You should do this right after planting. As we learned earlier, lots of tomato diseases live in the soil. When it rains the bare soil splashes up onto the leaves and transmits the disease. - Source: Internet
  • Besides sucker removal, I also prune some leaves from my plants. This is a technique I learned from famed tomato grower, Craig LeHoullier, the author of Epic Tomatoes. As the plants grow, I remove the bottom leaves from my plants. How many leaves? Well that depends on the individual plant but I like the bottom foot of each plant to be free of foliage. This helps reduce the spread of soil-borne diseases like early blight. - Source: Internet
  • Determinate tomato plants are shrub-like. They grow to a certain height, then stop growing up and instead fill out and grow bushier. Determinate tomato plants also go to flower and fruit all at once. Patio, Roma, and Celebrity are a few popular varieties of determinate tomato plants. Because they fruit in a shorter time span and grow as more compact plants, determinate tomato plants need less pruning. - Source: Internet
  • When to start pruning depends on the planting date. Ideally, start removing side shoots immediately after planting, so at the beginning of May in the greenhouse or from mid-May outdoors, and continue until autumn. It is best to pinch out your tomatoes in the morning, as the wounds dry quicker during the day. Wear gloves to avoid sticky green spots on your hands. - Source: Internet
  • The basic principle behind pruning cordon type tomato plants is that you want the main stem (the one that emerges from the soil / compost) to be the one from which all the leaf stems emerge from. Take a close look at the picture above and see what’s in the upper blue circle. The main stem is the largest one growing upwards, there is also a leaf stem which is growing at right angles to the main stem. In between them, in the picture it’s referred to as “older growth remove”, there is a new main stem forming and that should be pruned away. When you do this don’t remove the nearby leaf stem and do not damage it. - Source: Internet
  • Not all plants are fussy about pruning, though. Most annual and perennial plants are much more laid back when it comes to pruning habits. Forget to deadhead them? They’ll forgive you. Cut it back too short? No worries, it’ll fill back out in no time. One of my favorite forgiving plants to care for are tomato plants. - Source: Internet
  • Tomato varieties that produce slicing fruit, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Jet Star,’ and ‘Brandywine,’ will produce larger fruit if the plant’s fruit clusters are reduced to one or two tomatoes. Simply snip out developing fruit, leaving the largest one or two tomatoes in the cluster. This type of fruit pruning is called thinning. If bigger tomatoes are your goal, thin the fruit so your plant will direct its energy into the remaining fruit. - Source: Internet
  • If you haven’t installed cages or set up your trellis yet, now is the time to do so. Your plants should be caged at all times to prevent them from lying on the ground. Here’s more on why and how to use tomato cages. - Source: Internet
  • At this stage, your cherry tomato plant will be less than a foot tall. Give it a couple of weeks to grow and then come back to it and start regular pruning. Pruning will focus on two main things: removing leaves and removing suckers. - Source: Internet
  • A major disadvantage of pruning tomato plants is that pruning causes open wounds on the plant, which are entry points for pathogens. This causes stress for the tomato plants, as they must close their wounds quickly and focus their energy on fighting pathogens. And not to mention the fact that regular pinching out or pruning is time-consuming and must be repeated every two weeks or so, depending on the vigour of the tomato variety. For beginner tomato growers, it can also be challenging to distinguish which shoots to remove. There is a risk of removing main fruit-bearing shoots, forcing the plant to switch to more unstable side shoots. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate tomato grown on a trellis or double stakes (you can also use four by eight foot sheets of wire concrete mesh for this). I rarely train my tomatoes this way, but if you wish to grow more than one main stem per plant, they will need ample support. I don’t let any suckers develop along the bottom foot of the plant (a disease prevention strategy – more details below), but then I let one or two suckers grow and train these alongside the central stem so the plant has two to three main stems. This works for large and small fruited tomatoes. - Source: Internet
  • Wild tomatoes from South America grow and spread out naturally from all leaf axils, growing low to the ground and forming a densely branched bush over time. Our domesticated tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) was cultivated from these diverse wild tomatoes (Solanum sp.), and still shares many similarities with its wild relatives. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate cherry tomatoes are very fast growers and can reach impressive sizes by mid-season. If left untouched – and planted close together – you’ll soon have a jungle on your hands. This means lots of foliage, moisture that’s trapped in, and little to no airflow – the perfect breeding ground for blight and disease. - Source: Internet
  • Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is very similar to growing them outside, except you get a longer growing season. You’ll need to shade your plants from excessive heat, which could cause tough skins, blotchy ripening and, if you forget to water regularly, blossom-end rot. So fit some blinds, use shade paint, or hang woven shading fabric. - Source: Internet
  • Prune plants in the morning, after any dew or overnight rain has dried off the foliage. This will help avoid spreading plant diseases. Aim to prune plants when the suckers are between 2 and 4 inches long. Determinate tomato plants (those that reach 4 feet tall or so and stop growing) only need to be pruned once. Indeterminate tomatoes can be pruned every couple of weeks as they continue to produce new leaves. - Source: Internet
  • By nature, indeterminate tomato plants produce more foliage than determinate tomato plants. For this reason, indeterminate tomatoes benefit most from pruning to remove excess foliage, but pruning boosts the production of determinate tomatoes too. The pruning time for determinate tomatoes is simply shorter than indeterminate varieties that produce new leaves and fruit for several months. - Source: Internet
  • By contrast, indeterminate tomatoes do not have a fixed mature size, but continue to grow throughout the season, eventually becoming very large vines. Some varieties can reach as much as 20 feet in length, although most remain between 6 and 8 feet. Many of the most popular tomato varieties, including cherry tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes, and cultivars such as ‘Big Boy,’ ‘Beefsteak,’ and ‘Brandywine’ are indeterminate. - Source: Internet
  • Is there such a thing as too many tomatoes?! Okay, yes. When I used to grow 40 plants that was a little too much. But, really, the more tomatoes I can harvest from one plant the better. - Source: Internet
  • Remove suckers by pinching them off with your thumb and forefinger or use a pair of clean, sharp pruners. Aim to remove most suckers you see. Both an art and a science, tomato plant pruning is specific to the variety and the growing conditions in your garden. When in doubt, leave a sucker and watch the outcome over the course of the season. Then next year, make modifications to your technique based on your observations. - Source: Internet
  • Now, I’m going to share them with you. I’ll also share how you can top your tomatoes if you choose to take this path. Here’s what you should know about tomato topping. - Source: Internet
  • The plant will redirect energy as well. It will begin focusing on the new growth instead of the fruit already on the vine. Therefore, you must continue to prune tomato plants if you’d like see the same benefits through the entire season. - Source: Internet
  • I also mulch the soil surface with straw or shredded laves. This two step approach (removing bottom leaves and mulching soil) has dramatically improved the health of my tomato plants. For more tomato growing tips, be sure to check out this detailed article from Jessica. - Source: Internet
  • To prune or not to prune? This is the question many gardeners ask themselves when it comes to cherry tomatoes. Some don’t touch them at all, others prune them diligently, and there’s no right or wrong way to do it. Cherry tomatoes are a different kind of beast – and they really do grow into beasts – so I personally prefer pruning just to keep them under control. - Source: Internet
  • You can continue to do the same with a second sucker, higher up. Anything more than 3 stems, and I feel like they can quickly get out of hand, especially if you’re growing other cherry tomatoes close by. In time, you’ll learn what works best for you. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate tomatoes – My pruning strategy depends on how I support vining tomato plants and if they’re large or small fruited. I typically grow them on sturdy one by two by seven foot wood stakes. In my polytunnel I grow them up twine. Here are five examples of when and how to prune indeterminate tomatoes: - Source: Internet
  • I studied horticultural sciences at university and in my free time you can find me in my own patch of land, growing anything with roots. I am particularly passionate about self-sufficiency and seasonal food. Favourite fruit: quince, cornelian cherry and blueberries Favourite vegetables: peas, tomatoes and garlic - Source: Internet
  • If your goal is the healthiest tomato plants with the most bountiful harvest, then pruning your tomato plants is well worth the short time you’ll spend on the task. While there are a few other methods of pruning, including pruning the plant’s roots or pinching out the tomato plant’s growing tips, the most common method is to prune away the suckers. Removing these unnecessary side shoots forces your tomato plant to focus more energy on fruit production, rather than foliage growth. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate tomato grown on tall wire cages (not flimsy short cages). For large fruited tomatoes, I suggest allowing at least three to four suckers to develop as that increases overall production. Removing the rest helps to reduce foliage overcrowding in the middle of the plant. For cherry tomatoes, I let the suckers develop to maximize the harvest. - Source: Internet
  • Leave tomatoes on the plants so they can ripen naturally, which greatly improves the flavour. Towards the end of the season, prune off the older leaves to let in more light and prevent grey mould fungus taking hold. If the weather turns cold, pick the trusses to ripen indoors. - Source: Internet
  • Some controversy exists over whether or not tomato plants should be pruned, and the reality is that if you don’t, it will not necessarily cause problems. Plenty of people do not prune at all and still grow good tomatoes. Tomatoes are not one of those plants that require pruning or deadheading in order to survive, but shrewd pruning can improve the quality of the fruit you harvest. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate cherry tomato plants need some kind of support, whether that’s a trellis, stakes, or strings. You can successfully train a cherry tomato plant up 2-3 strings, 2-3 bamboo canes, or wooden stakes. If you have the option of trellising them, a fence-type trellis works best. - Source: Internet
  • Rooting a tomato sucker takes about seven to ten days. Keep in mind that if you live in a climate with a short season like me, it’s best to root suckers as early as possible and from fast-maturing cherry tomato plants. This gives the new plants enough time to grow, mature, and fruit before the autumn frost arrives. Here are my five steps to rooting and then planting tomato suckers. - Source: Internet
  • The simple answer is no. With large-fruited tomato varieties such as ox-heart and beef tomatoes, however, the side shoots should be removed. Even with medium-sized indeterminate tomatoes, we recommend only leaving a maximum of two to three shoots, including the main shoot. - Source: Internet
  • Once flowers appear, feed your plants weekly with liquid tomato food, such as Tomorite. Keep tomatoes well watered because irregular watering causes fruit to split or develop hard black patches, known as blossom-end rot. This is caused by a lack of calcium, which is found in water. - Source: Internet
  • Tomato suckers are produced on both determinate and indeterminate tomato plants. A sucker is a shoot that forms in the joint where a leaf meets the stem. If allowed to grow, suckers eventually produce flowers and fruits, but the plant will be very dense with growth. - Source: Internet
  • Another tomato pruning task is topping the plants. This is something I typically do in late summer, about a month before the first expected frost date, but it can also be done when tomato plants grow past the top of their stakes. I cut the top of the plant above the last fruit cluster that I think still has time to mature before fall. - Source: Internet
  • Pruning creates open wounds on tomato plants. And just like when you get a cut, wounds are entry points for infections. Wash your hands with soap and water or use a hand sanitizer frequently when pruning tomatoes. If you’re using pruners, keep them clean too by wiping them with a diluted bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between plants. - Source: Internet
  • As the growing season draws to a close, tomato plants are often still loaded with fruit. To speed ripening late in the season, remove the growing tip of each main stem about four weeks before the first expected fall frost. Called “topping,” this type of pruning causes the plant to stop flowering and setting new fruit, and instead directs all sugars to the remaining fruit. This way, the fruit will ripen faster, plus it becomes more likely that the green tomatoes you pick before frost will actually ripen when you bring them indoors. It may be hard to bring yourself to do this, but it will be worth it if you wish for ripe tomatoes! Of course, if you prefer your tomatoes to remain green for use in frying and jelly, you can certainly skip this step. - Source: Internet
  • The sucker will grow to have its own leaves, flowers, fruits, and suckers. It’s basically like a whole new tomato plant growing out of the original plant. We’re going to be pruning most of them off, suckers! - Source: Internet
  • As you read and learn about a specific plant’s pruning needs and preferences, you may develop some pruning anxiety. This is especially true of pruning shrubs, which have all sorts of strict rules like, “prune immediately after flowering”, “only cut back during dormancy”, or “cut the flower stem above an outward facing bud or above a five-leaflet”. With such specific pruning rules, you may feel like you need to set up a diagram next to a shrub to prune it properly. - Source: Internet
  • In general, tomato plants produce main stems and main leaf branches. Fruit develops on the main leaf branches. Suckers grow in the intersection between the main stem and main leaf branches. They’re easy to spot once you know what you’re looking for. - Source: Internet
  • Pruning starts from the very first day you transplant your cherry tomato seedling into the ground, and it continues in different stages. As a gardener, you need to be intentional with pruning and have a plan in place. But not to worry, in this article, you’ll learn all the pruning basics, and you’ll get even better with practice. - Source: Internet
  • After I removed all the damage, it was as small as it had been when I purchased it. I didn’t have much hope that I would get any tomatoes from it, but every evening I found myself sitting next to it, enjoying the summer breeze and carelessly picking at any suspicious looking leaf on the plant. The way it responded to my pruning reminded me of the mythical hydra, sprouting new stems, leaves and flowers wherever I snipped and pinched. - Source: Internet
  • You should only be pruning indeterminate tomato plants. Determinate plants don’t need pruning. You’ll need to look up your varieties online if you don’t know which type they are. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate tomato plants are more like wild vines. These grow as long as they can go and continually bear new fruit sets. You can save space in the garden and focus on fruit production by growing indeterminate tomato plants vertically up poles, arbors, trellises, fences, or as an espalier. They can be trained and trimmed easily to grow as single stemmed, heavy fruit bearing plants by removing excess tomato plant leaves and sucker stems that form along the main stem. - Source: Internet
  • Lastly, some gardeners choose to grow their indeterminate cherry tomatoes inside tomato cages and allow for 4 or more stems. This, in my opinion, is a quick recipe for disaster. While easy to prune at first, and nicely ventilated at the base, caged cherry tomatoes will soon grow into a tangled mess, filling up all the space inside the cage and around it. Soon, you won’t be able to tell unintentional suckers from main leads and things can quickly get out of hand. - Source: Internet
  • Tip: You can make tomato fertiliser from the sprouted side shoots. The method is the same as with nettle tea fertiliser soak the shoots in a ratio of 1 part shoots to 20 parts water. Apply this extract when watering to strengthen your tomato plant. - Source: Internet
  • Have you ever heard of gardeners topping their tomatoes? This has been a long-running discussion in our family about whether this is a good idea or not. My husband comes from a long line of gardeners. They have green thumbs and pride themselves on the gorgeous tomatoes they produce. - Source: Internet
  • Cocktail tomatoes form small fruits and therefore only require limited pruning. This is because the side shoots usually form flowers and fruit quickly, plus the side shoots although thinner can support the weight of the fruits. However, to avoid a wild-growing plant with poor air circulation, it is worth removing a few shoots. If there is enough space, leave two or three lower side shoots next to the main shoot. The shoots will form flowers and fruits, and you can remove all side shoots higher up on the main shoot. - Source: Internet
  • Indeterminate tomato allowed to sprawl on the ground. It’s next to impossible to prune tomato plants that aren’t supported. They form a dense mound of foliage which doesn’t encourage good air circulation and fosters the spread of diseases. I don’t grow tomatoes on the ground. - Source: Internet
  • If you’re not sure if the tomato varieties you’re growing are determinate or indeterminate, a quick Internet search of the name should clarify things. Common indeterminate varieties that especially benefit from pruning include ‘Sungold,’ ‘Sweet 100,’ ‘Juliet,’ ‘Big Boy,’ ‘Early Girl,’ ‘Big Beef,’ ‘Jet Star,’ ‘Brandywine,’ and ‘Cherokee Purple.’ - Source: Internet
  • Pruning tomato suckers is about controlling and managing the growth of the plant. Because they are botanically stems not suckers, tomato suckers do not take energy away from the plant. In fact, they actually contribute to plant growth and garden lore says leaving suckers may result in better tasting tomatoes. How? More stems means more leaves to gather sunlight which is converted to energy (sugars!) by the plant. - Source: Internet
  • In turn, you shorten your growing season and reduce the size of your harvest. However, you can top indeterminate varieties. These tomatoes don’t have a certain height they reach. - Source: Internet
  • Choose the right tomato for your plate – don’t grow cherry tomatoes if you want to make tomato sauces, or plum tomatoes if you want to eat them raw in salads. Research which varieties are best for you, and stick to them. Where to buy tomatoes online Dobies - Source: Internet
  • Pruning can be labor-intensive, though, and that’s why many gardeners feel overwhelmed and let their tomato patch grow into a jungle. But if you know the basics, start early, and keep on top of it weekly during the growing season, you’ll love your results. (Be sure to also check this article on the timing and frequency of tomato pruning to learn more.) - Source: Internet
  • Step 2 – Immediately place the pruned sucker in a container of clean water. Label each container if you are going to be rooting more than one variety of tomato. Make sure no leaves are under water. - Source: Internet
  • Of course, there are also arguments against pruning tomatoes, otherwise the topic would not be so controversial. Essentially, tomatoes should only be pruned when it makes sense – which is not always the case. Pruned plants tend to grow taller, which makes them less stable. A light gust of wind can knock them over or break them. So, pruned tomatoes always need to have some sort of support. - Source: Internet
  • The main reason to prune tomato plants is that it helps your plant direct its energy towards producing fruit rather than producing more foliage. Pruning your tomato plants at the suckers and removing yellowed leaves encourages healthy fruit production and prevents plant diseases. Unpruned foliage will eventually grow into new branches that will form fruit, but most experienced growers advise that tomatoes should be pruned to not only produce larger fruit earlier in the season, but also to protect the plants against pests and disease problems. - Source: Internet
  • Tomatoes are best eaten straight from the vine, when they’re still warm from the sun. They don’t freeze well, but you can store them for a week or so at room temperature. Avoid storing your tomatoes in the fridge where possible, as this will give them a mealy texture. - Source: Internet
  • There are many good reasons for topping your tomato plants. One major benefit is that it produces fuller plants. If you would like your plant to be bushier, cut the top of the plant off. This allows the rest of the plant to redirect energy to other areas which enables it to fill out instead of continuing to grow taller. - Source: Internet
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